Kittery, Maine, often celebrated for its impressive array of outlet stores, holds a delightful secret that extends far beyond shopping bags and discounts. Nestled in this charming town, from the vibrant Wallingford Square to along Route 1, lies a culinary gem known as When Pigs Fly Pizzeria. While the brand may be widely recognized for its exceptional freshly baked bread gracing the shelves of numerous New England supermarkets, a visit to their Kittery restaurant unveils a much broader spectrum of their gastronomic prowess.
The pizzeria, housed in a distinctive dark grey building, welcomes guests with a spacious front porch. To one side, a company store beckons with the promise of artisanal breads and complementary condiments. To the other, the inviting entrance to the restaurant leads into a world where Chef Rob Martin orchestrates a symphony of flavors in the kitchen. Martin’s resume speaks volumes, boasting tenures at esteemed establishments like Le Bec-Fin in Philadelphia and No. 9 Park in Boston. His experiences are diverse, including a stint cooking for a research team in Antarctica. However, Chef Martin credits his formative years spent in Milan, Italy, as the most impactful. “I learned so much about food and also about how to give a great dining experience. It’s about much more than cooking,” he reflects.
This rich tapestry of culinary adventures is vividly reflected in his approach at When Pigs Fly Maine. Chef Martin has skillfully expanded the restaurant’s offerings from a primarily pizza-centric menu to a more comprehensive selection. Diners can now indulge in superb salads, innovative sandwiches crafted with their signature bread, elevated pub fare, and enticing daily entrée specials. Yet, as Martin acknowledges, “pizza absolutely drives the business.” The star of the show is their traditional Naples-style pizza, cooked to perfection in a mere six minutes within a wood-fired oven. The dough, a crucial element, is freshly prepared at the When Pigs Fly bakery just down the street. “It’s not Americanized at all,” Martin emphasizes, describing the pizza’s characteristically thin, sourdough crust, judiciously topped with cheese, and complemented by a sauce that shuns excessive sweetness. The authenticity has even been lauded by visitors from Naples, who confirmed its genuine Italian roots. Emerging hot from the oven, each pizza is a masterpiece. The slightly charred, chewy outer crust is, for many, an irresistible delight.
What truly distinguishes When Pigs Fly Pizzeria is its inventive combinations of toppings. Chef Martin’s personal favorite, the Medjool date and soppressata pizza, exemplifies this creativity—a harmonious blend of sweet and savory notes, enhanced by a drizzle of hot honey, a condiment so compelling it’s available for purchase in the adjacent When Pigs Fly store. Another standout is the Autumn Pizza special, a seasonal symphony of squash, robust bacon, creamy goat cheese, crispy fried kale, fresh apples, garlic, and that signature hot honey. “It’s fall in New England, on a pizza,” Martin aptly describes, proudly noting that all ingredients, save for the goat cheese, are sourced within a 60-mile radius.
Chef Martin’s arrival at When Pigs Fly Pizzeria two and a half years prior marked a renewed commitment to seasonality and locally sourced ingredients. The kale salad, featuring roasted beets, predominantly utilizes regional produce, with the exception of the Marcona almonds adding a delightful crunch. Lightly fried sunchokes contribute a unique textural element, while the lemon-thyme vinaigrette perfectly unifies the ensemble. Occasionally, Martin sources whole pigs from Breezy Hill Farm, owned by the father of the restaurant’s previous chef, showcasing a commitment to local partnerships. He skillfully butchers the meat in-house, incorporating it into diverse dishes, from capicola to porchetta, and a notable pork schnitzel special accompanied by an apple cider Dijon sauce and creamy mashed potatoes. “Specials keep things interesting,” he explains, highlighting their role in culinary exploration and staff development. The portions are generously sized, encouraging a communal dining experience, which is further fostered by the presence of long, communal tables. “This is a community-oriented place,” Martin states. “We encourage sharing, relaxing, talking over a meal. That’s what restaurants are for.”
Desserts at When Pigs Fly Maine are decidedly designed for sharing. The ice cream sandwich, a substantial chocolate toffee cookie enveloping s’mores ice cream, is a testament to this. The pumpkin cheesecake, presented in a Mason jar with a brittle bruléed top, offers another ample and satisfying conclusion to the meal, easily enjoyed by multiple dessert enthusiasts.
Complementing the food is an impressive beverage program, with beer taking center stage, featuring 20 taps curated by co-owner Ron Siegel. The selection spans global and local breweries, including Kittery’s own Tributary Brewing Company, and rotates seasonally, highlighting IPAs and farmhouse ales in the fall and transitioning to stouts and porters in the winter months. Eight wines are also available on tap, by the glass, half-liter, and liter. The red sangria, refreshingly not overly sweet, provides a pleasant alternative, particularly with pizza. Cocktails, often featuring house-made infusions, such as the Blackberry Gin Fizz, showcase further beverage creativity.
“We’re making improvements as we go,” Martin concludes. “I’m super proud of (owners) Ron and Andrew Siegel. They got things moving in the right direction, working 20-hour days when the place first started. Now they’ve been able to step back. It was nice to be handed the keys and continue to make it work.”
When Pigs Fly Pizzeria | 460 U.S. Route 1 | Kittery | 207.438.7036 | whenpigsflypizzeria.com
